Monumento Natural Cerro Gaital is a national park at about 900m above sea level where a circular hiking trail takes you into the forest and up to a high look off. Road maps of El Valle are hard to come by but it’s not large—the find the park, ask for directions or watch for signs as you drive near the perimeter of the caldera. The road to Cerro Gaital climbs into the hills and eventually brings you to a small park office where the ranger will take your admission (probably still about $5) and give you some information about the park.

The trail leads away into the forest, but soon branches to left and right. Turn in either direction: you’ll return by the other branch. The habitat at the bottom is fairly open but much of the way passes through dense forest, and at higher elevations you’ll come out into the open and see vultures wheeling overhead. Bird life is abundant in Cerro Gaital—you may well see fifty or more species in a single day. Watch for trogons and tanagers, hummingbirds, seedeaters, grosbeaks, Black Guans, Purplish-backed Quail Doves, birds of prey and many others. The trail is only moderately difficult and fairly short, so you’ll have lots of time to stop along the way.

TIPS:  Panama Audubon produces an Annotated Checklist of the Birds of Panama, an invaluable reference for the serious birder. You can purchase it through their website before your trip.

The trail at Cerro Gaital is circular, so keep to the right if you’re proceeding clockwise, and to the left if you’ve gone the other way. Near the peak, a branch leads away and further up—this side trail is steep, difficult, and treacherous, in places narrow, in others muddy. It’s worth a quick look in the first few metres just for the view but don’t venture further unless you’re an able hiker and climber.

Places

Spend a day exploring the flat area of El Valle on foot or on rented bicycles. There are many roads, lanes and trails to travel down, hot springs, streams, waterfalls, even petroglyphs. Ask your host where to look for square trees and golden frogs. El Valle is relatively small and surrounded by a rim of peaks so you can’t get lost.

You’ll have no trouble finding birds and other small wildlife. Look for at least five species of hummingbirds, tanagers, flycatchers, doves, woodpeckers and various raptors, to name a few. Many species abound in roadside vegetation and ditches, and in the gardens of residents. While looking for birds, you’re bound to notice butterflies – in season, you’ll see the unforgettable Blue Morpho butterfly, impossible to miss if it wings past you.

Because El Valle is a popular birding destination, hosts of local hotels and bed-and-breakfasts are often quite knowledgeable and can help you find good birding trails if you wish to stay longer in the area.

Places